Cheetahs are sleek, amazingly fast and powerful. I imagine that capturing a defenseless impala or wildebeest will be easy for the three cheetah males we track in the Savuti area of Botswana. We stalk them much like they stalk their prey. Knowing only that they were seen in the area yesterday, the open land rover patrols several kilometers of a dried up channel, the perfect hunting ground for cheetahs. All afternoon, binoculars scan the raised banks, stopping to examine termite mounds carefully as Tony Reumerman, our Wilderness Safaris guide, has explained that cheetahs favor the vantage point of these structures.
The light begins to change to golden and the cats show themselves.
The coalition of three males move down the channel at a relaxed pace. They look hungry with mouths slightly open and bellies obviously empty.
A small herd of wildebeest grazes at the widest point in the river of grass. The brothers stop, interested in the proximity of the "made by committee" animals. They separate and watch.
Crouched, ears back, their muscles show a slight twitch of anticipation.
I think of Pico, my cat, and the similarity of the hunter’s stance. The difference being that Pico relies heavily on the can opener rather than the moles she toys with in the backyard.
One by one, they begin to approach the herd with agonizing slowness. First, they move along the edge of the channel and then, creep closer through the grass.
I am not sure how I will feel when the cheetahs kill but I have developed a kinship with these brothers after hearing their story. They move up and down the Savuti channel avoiding lion activity and sometimes loosing their prey to the hyenas that also call the area home. One of the brothers limps, perhaps from an encounter with a lion or hyena, and clearly couldn’t survive on his own.
I am rooting for the brothers as they approach the wildebeest – until I suspect that they will single out a youngster born only months before in the spring. Suddenly, with incredible speed, they sprint toward their prey. The herd only becomes aware of the danger when the cats are almost upon them. It seems hopeless and I am not sure I can watch.
Late afternoon into the twilight is my favorite time of day on safari. While I hate for the days to end, it is the part of day I wish would stretch out, extend, and last forever.
First, the late afternoon light is golden and it enriches the colors of the African landscape and turns the dry season air to gold dust.
Then, there are the sunsets, always different, always spectacular.
The animals begin to get active – either heading for a drink and out of harms way, or coming out into the safety of the dark to forage or hunt. Either getting up or bedding down, everyone is doing something.
Tanzanian parks require safari activities cease by dark and so, this year, we race to make it back to camp each evening. Something of interest to photograph or to watch always delays us.
In Tarangire, the road to camp runs along the edge of a lush swamp. Each night we watch the moon rise as elephants take one last drink
or have a mud bath at water’s edge.
Trees take on a different shape as birds choose a roosting spot. When vultures roost, it looks eerily like Halloween. This year, open billed storks roosting look more like Saturday morning cartoons.
Heckyl and Jeckyll
Over the years, as I have ticked off “most wanted” sightings from my list, cheetahs remain, for since that first trip to Africa and the remarkable hunting scene; I have only had one other brief glimpse of a cheetah.
Now, in the fading light, with only moments before our curfew, we come upon two cheetahs flanking the road back to Oliver's Camp. Despite the hour, we stop and it is easy to see the cats are alert; they look ready to hunt.
I think back to the cheetahs in Botswana and visualize the hunt again in my mind. Three cheetahs against a small herd of wildebeests with several young in their midst -- seems like bad odds for the wildebeests. Nature evens the playing field with funny curved horns, tricks and agility. The wildebeests scatter, some run in circles, some run behind the cheetahs. In the dust they kick up, I can’t distinguish the adults from the young, the young from the cheetahs. That is the point, I realize, as I watch in amazement as out of the dust, a phalanx of adult wildebeests forms to march on their attackers and separate them from the rest of the herd.
Score one for the wildebeests but the brothers go hungry. How many times do they try and fail?
In Tarangire, I want to follow this pair of cats to their hunt just like I followed the Botswana cheetahs. I want to see if their luck or skill is better. The park rules and we move on to camp.
Murky twilight is perfect for hunting however, not for photography. Before dinner, I check my photos of the pair and see only unrecognizable blur. Fortunately, Jill Snyder's luck (and skill!) was better and she captured this wonderful image of one of bothers in truly difficult lighting conditions.
Hopes of getting a better look at this pair of cheetah are gone -- we are off to the Serengeti the next day. With its vast plains, the Serengeti also provides prime hunting grounds for cheetah and my search begins anew.
Every time a kopje comes into view I scan it hopefully as the elevation provides a great survey position for cats.
Robert, our guide, hears there is a cheetah in the area and we search, driving back and forth along the plain. It is a male, we are told. He has eaten recently and is resting from his exertions in tall grass hidden from our view. We look for the smallest sign of movement. His tail flips to chase flies trying to land on the blood still clinging in places to his fur. The motion gives him away and we drive closer.
He is beautiful. Healthy and regal, he feeds easily on the herds of wildebeest traveling through the area as they migrate to the northern plains in search of fertile grasslands. In this photo by Carl Zanoni, he has captured “The Hunter” perfectly.
Yet, as he rolls on the ground, it is hard to imagine a killer.
A group of wildebeest move close to his resting spot; he forgets he has just eaten and instinct takes over. He begins to stalk them and I think he will hunt. His full belly brushes the ground perhaps reminding him he is full and slow.
He decides to just watch.
The fate of the cheetah brothers in Botswana? They finally make a kill. We get word the next morning. A night of keeping the wildebeests on edge wearies the herd and the cats succeed in separating out one of the young. They made their kill less than a kilometer from camp.Thanks to Jill and Carl for letting me share their photos. The best part of a photography based trip is the chance to meet and learn from other photographers. More of Jill’s photos can be seen at http://www.photosbyjilles.com/, the site for Jill E. Snyder Photography.
The most difficult animal to see...
...is the one you haven't seen.
Cheetahs remain near the top of my list.
